Sweet or Savory, a Crust is a Crust

Wow, we made it to Friday! Recently I used leftover chicken from my Granny's matzah ball soup recipe to make a chicken pot pie (single crust)! But a pie crust is a pie crust is a pie crust, and while each can be made differently and used for different types of desserts, the delicacy of the crust is important in every situation. How much you handle the crust and knead the dough is key - and it's as little as possible. While it's easy to make a crust in a food processor, using a pastry blender is easy and leads to a better result! Check out the steps to making an herb crust below (but choose your favorite recipe to bake it into a crust!):

Herb Crust

Bon Appetit, Oct 1999

Makes single crust

Ingredients

• 2 1/2 cups all purpose flour (**I sub in 1 cup of whole wheat flour**)
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2 cup chilled solid vegetable shortening, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 6 1/2 tablespoons (about) ice water

Directions

1. Blend first 5 ingredients in processor until herbs are very finely chopped. Add butter and shortening. Blend until mixture resembles coarse meal. 
2. Transfer mixture to large bowl. Using fork, mix enough ice water into flour mixture to form moist clumps. 
3. Gather dough into ball; flatten into rectangle. Cover and chill 30 minutes. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Keep chilled. Let dough soften slightly before rolling out.)

Dry ingredients and herbs

Mix with a pastry blender
and then a fork for the ice water

Mix until combined, but that's it!

Roll out at least 30 min later

Sweetening with Condensed Milk

Happy Thursday to all! I was recently reminded of the sweet joys of baking with sweetened condensed milk, a deliciously sweet and creamy concoction that adds a delightful punch to desserts that aren't often the first off our "to do" lists. Check them out below:

Macaroons!

Coconut Macaroons
Danny Cohen (aka Danny Macaroons)

Ingredients

• One 14-ounce bag sweetened shredded coconut
• One 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 2 large egg whites
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 350° and line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, combine the coconut with the sweetened condensed milk and vanilla. In another bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites with the salt until firm peaks form. Fold the beaten whites into the coconut mixture.
2. Scoop tablespoon-size mounds of the mixture onto the baking sheets, about 1 inch apart. Bake in the upper and middle thirds of the oven for about 25 minutes, until golden; shift the sheets from top to bottom and front to back halfway through baking. Transfer the baking sheets to racks and let the cookies cool completely.
3. Dip the bottoms of the macaroons into the melted chocolate, letting any excess drip back into the bowl. Return the cookies to the lined baking sheets. Drizzle any remaining chocolate on top and refrigerate for about 5 minutes, until set.

MAKE AHEAD: The macaroons can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.

Chocolate Fudge with Bourbon Sugar

William Werner

Ingredients

Bourbon Sugar:

• 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
• 1 cup demerara sugar
• 2 tablespoons bourbon

Fudge:

• Nonstick vegetable oil spray
• 10 ounces bittersweet chocolate (preferably 72%), coarsely chopped
• 4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped
• 1 14-oz. can sweetened condensed milk
• 10 tablespoons (1¼ sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
• 2 tablespoons bourbon
• 1 tablespoon light corn syrup
• ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
• Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)

Directions

Bourbon Sugar:

1. Preheat oven to 150° or as low as yours will go. Scrape vanilla seeds into a small bowl; stir in demerara sugar and bourbon. Spread on a parchment-lined baking sheet and let dry out in oven overnight, leaving door slightly ajar. Mixture should feel like demerara sugar again in the morning.

Do Ahead: Store bourbon sugar airtight at room temperature up to 2 months.

Fudge:

1. Line an 8x8” baking dish with parchment paper, leaving a generous overhang on 2 sides; lightly coat with nonstick spray. Heat chocolates in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water (do not let bowl touch water), stirring occasionally, until almost completely melted. Set aside.
2. Combine condensed milk, butter, bourbon, corn syrup, and kosher salt in a small saucepan; scrape in vanilla seeds and add pod. Heat over medium until barely hot (same as the chocolate).
3. Gently stir one quarter of milk mixture into chocolate with a rubber spatula. Add another quarter of milk mixture, stirring to incorporate (it might look broken and greasy; don’t worry, it will come back together). Continue with remaining milk mixture in 2 additions, stirring vigorously until fudge is very shiny and almost elastic, about 5 minutes. Scrape into prepared pan and smooth top. Sprinkle with bourbon sugar and sea salt. Let cool, then cover and chill at least 4 hours.
4. Turn out fudge onto a cutting board and slice into 2x¾” rectangles, 2” squares, or triangles.

Do Ahead: Fudge can be made 1 week ahead. Wrap tightly and chill.

Coffee Infused Tres Leches Cake

Rick Bayless

Ingredients

For the Cake:

• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
• Salt
• 4 eggs at room tempterature
• 1/4 cup vegetable oil
• 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract, preferably Mexican
• 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

For the Three Milks, Meringue, and Garnish:

• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 14-ounce can evaporated milk
• 1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk
• 1/2 cup freshly brewed espresso or strongly brewed coffee
• 1 teaspoonvanilla extract preferably Mexican
• 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon, preferably freshly ground Mexican canela
• 1 cup sugar
• 5 egg whites at room temperature
• 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
• 1/2 cup shaved Mexican chocolate

Directions

1. Bake the cakes. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a muffin pan that makes 6 large muffins with muffin papers.
2. Place the flour, 6 tablespoons of the sugar, the baking powder and a pinch of salt in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Separate the eggs, dropping the whites into the bowl of a mixer and the yolks into a medium bowl. Add the oil, vanilla and 2 tablespoons of water to the yolks and mix well. Beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar until they start to thicken and form soft peaks. Gradually add the remaining 6 tablespoons of sugar and continue to beat until stiff peaks form.
3. Add 1/3 of the flour mixture to the egg yolks and mix well. Gently fold in 1/3 of the beaten egg whites. Repeat, alternating the flour mixture and egg whites until everything is thoroughly combined. Scoop the fluffy batter into the prepared muffin tins, place in the hot oven and bake until the tops spring back when touched, 20 to 22 minutes. Allow to cool slightly, then take the individual cakes out of the molds, remove the papers and invert them into a deep 13x9 inch baking dish.
4. Make the three milks mixture. Combine the heavy cream, evaporated milk, condensed milk, coffee, vanilla, cinnamon and a pinch of salt in a bowl and mix well. Slowly pour the mixture over the cakes, soaking them thoroughly. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour to allow the milks to be absorbed into the cakes.
5. Frost the cakes with meringue and serve. Combine the sugar with 1/3 cup water in a small (2-quart) saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, swirling the pan gently until all the sugar is dissolved. Dip a brush in water and use it to clean the sides of the pan so no sugar crystals remain. (This is an important step in keeping the syrup from recrystallizing.) Lower the heat to medium and boil the syrup until it reaches soft ball stage (when a little syrup dropped into cold water will form a soft ball).
6. While the syrup is boiling, beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar and a pinch of salt until the whites form soft peaks. Drizzle in the hot sugar syrup in 4 additions, beating well after each addition. Continue to beat until the bottom of the bowl is cool.
7. To serve, place each soaked cake on a plate, decorate with a big dollop of meringue, toasting the peaks with a kitchen torch. Sprinkle with the Mexican chocolate and present to your guests to enjoy.

Happy baking!

Post Easter/Passover Spring

Happy Monday everyone! As we kick off the week, we leave behind the carrot and lemon cakes of Easter; the macaroons and chocolate matzah of Passover, and look ahead to fruity desserts for spring. Let's check out what's in store for spring:

Mock chestnut cake, topped with matzah crunch (for Pesach)

Apricot Almond Layer Cake
Gourmet, April 2005

Ingredients
Almond Macaroon Layers:

• 12 oz sliced blanched almonds (3 3/4 cups) or blanched slivered almonds (2 3/4 cups)
• 3 1/3 cups confectioners sugar
• 6 large egg whites
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 6 tablespoons granulated sugar

Apricot Compote:

• 6 oz dried California apricots (1 1/2 cups), finely chopped
• 1 1/2 cups water
• 3 tablespoons apricot preserves
• For praline almonds
• 1 cup sliced blanched almonds (3 oz)
• 1/2 cup confectioners sugar

Mascarpone Cream:

• 1 1/2 cups imported Italian mascarpone cheese (10 oz)
• 1/4 cup well-chilled heavy cream
• 1/4 cup Disaronno Amaretto or other almond-flavored liqueur

• Special equipment: parchment paper

Directions
Make macaroon layers:

1. Trace 2 (8-inch) circles on 1 sheet of parchment paper and a third circle on second sheet. Turn sheets over and put on 2 baking sheets.
2. Pulse almonds with 1 1/3 cups confectioners sugar in a food processor until very finely ground (mixture will resemble sand), 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and sift in remaining 2 cups confectioners sugar, then stir until combined well.
3. Beat egg whites with salt in a large bowl with an electric mixer at medium speed until they just hold soft peaks. Add granulated sugar a little at a time, beating, then increase speed to high and continue to beat until whites hold stiff, glossy peaks, about 3 minutes.
4. Stir whites into almond mixture until completely incorporated (batter will be thick), then divide batter evenly among traced circles on baking sheets (about 1 2/3 cups per circle), smoothing into 1/2-inch-thick rounds.Let rounds stand, uncovered, at room temperature until tops are no longer sticky and a light crust forms, about 30 minutes.
5. Put oven racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and preheat oven to 300°F. Bake macaroon layers, switching position of baking sheets halfway through cooking, until macaroons are crisp and edges are just barely pale golden, about 25 minutes. Turn off oven and let macaroons stand in oven 10 minutes. Cool completely on baking sheets on racks, about 1 hour.

Make compote while macaroon layers bake:

1. Simmer dried apricots in water in a 2- to 3-quart heavy saucepan, uncovered, over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until apricots are very soft and most of liquid is evaporated, about 15 minutes. Stir in preserves, then cool completely.
2. Make praline almonds:
3. Heat almonds in a 12-inch dry heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until almonds are hot but not yet colored, about 2 minutes. Add confectioners sugar and continue cooking, stirring and tossing, until almonds are lightly toasted and sugar glaze is caramelized, about 3 minutes. Immediately transfer almonds to a large sheet of foil and spread into 1 layer with a fork. Cool completely.

Make mascarpone cream:

1. Just before serving, beat together mascarpone, heavy cream, and Amaretto with cleaned beaters at medium speed until thick and smooth, about 2 minutes. Reserve 1/4 cup praline almonds, then fold remainder into cream.
2. Put 1 macaroon layer on a platter and spread with one third of compote (about 1/2 cup), then spread one fourth of mascarpone cream (about 3/4 cup) on top. Make another layer with second macaroon in same manner. Top with remaining macaroon, remaining compote, and remaining cream (1 1/2 cups), then sprinkle with reserved praline almonds.

Cooks' Notes:

1. Macaroon layers can be made 2 days ahead and kept in an airtight container, layered between parchment paper, at room temperature.
2. Apricot compote can be made 5 days ahead and chilled, covered.
3. *Praline almonds can be made 1 week ahead and kept in an airtight container at room temperature.

Rhubarb-Pistachio Bundt Cake with Rose Glaze

Caren Rothman, Poppy's Catering 

Ingredients

Cake:

• 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pan
• 2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for pan
• 2 1/4 cups granulated sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
• 5 large eggs, room temperature
• 2 teaspoons rose water
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
• 3/4 cup plain yogurt
• 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons raw pistachios, toasted and chopped
• 8 ounces rhubarb (2-3 stalks), trimmed

Rose Glaze:

• 2 1/2 cups powdered sugar
• 2 tablespoons milk
• 1 tablespoon rose water
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1/8 teaspoon salt

Decorating the Cake:

• 2 tablespoons dried rose petals
• 2 tablespoons raw pistachios, toasted and chopped

• Special equipment: 12-cup Bundt pan

Directions

Make the cake:

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour Bundt pan, tapping out excess flour.
2. Rub together granulated sugar and lemon zest with your fingers in a large bowl until fragrant. Using an electric mixer on medium speed, cream lemon sugar and 3/4 cup butter until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add eggs 1 at a time, scraping down sides of bowl and beating well between each addition. Beat in rose water and vanilla extract on medium-low speed until just combined.
3. Whisk 2 1/4 cups flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda in another large bowl. With mixer on low, add dry ingredients to lemon sugar mixture in 3 additions, alternating with yogurt in 2 additions, beginning and ending with dry ingredients, scraping down sides and bottom of bowl as needed. Fold in pistachios.
4. Cut rhubarb crosswise into 2 1/2" pieces. Using a mandoline set to 1/4" or a very sharp knife, slice rhubarb lengthwise, maintaining as much red skin on stalks as possible.
5. Pour one-third of the batter into prepared pan and smooth surface. Add half of the rhubarb, nestling pieces side by side to form a thick ring on top of batter. Pour another third of the batter on top of rhubarb layer; smooth surface. Repeat with remaining rhubarb and batter.
6. Bake cake until the surface is cracked and golden brown, springs back to the touch, and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 50–60 minutes. Let cake rest in pan 10 minutes, then turn out onto a cooling rack.

Make the rose glaze:

1. Whisk powdered sugar, milk, rose water, vanilla extract, and salt in a medium bowl until well combined. Glaze should be pourable but stiff enough to hold its shape-it can be thickened with more powdered sugar or thinned with more milk if needed.

Decorate the cake:

1. Using a spoon, drizzle rose glaze over cooled cake, holding the spoon a few inches above the cake. While glaze is still wet, sprinkle rose petals and pistachios on top.
2. Do Ahead
3. Cake can be baked, cooled, wrapped in plastic, and stored at room temperature up to 3 days. Glaze can be made and stored in an airtight container at room temperature up to 5 days.

Cooks' Note: 

1. Dry your own rose petals from fresh roses or find dried rose petals at gourmet and Middle Eastern food stores.

Strawberry-Basil Shortcakes

Chris Fischer, Bon Appetit, May 2014

Ingredients

Shortcakes:

• ¼ cup sugar
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for surface
• 6 tablespoons (¾ stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 large egg, beaten to blend

Berries And Assembly:

• 1½ pound fresh strawberries, hulled, quartered (about 3 cups), divided
• 4 tablespoons sugar, divided
• 2 sprigs basil
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 2 tablespoons crème fraîche

Directions

Shortcakes:

1. Preheat oven to 400°. Whisk sugar, baking powder, salt, and 2 cups flour in a large bowl. Using your fingers or a pastry cutter, work in butter until the texture of coarse meal with a few pea-size pieces of butter remaining. Add cream and mix until dough just comes together (it will be sticky).
2. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface and pat into a 12x4” rectangle about ¾” thick. Cut out rounds with a 2½” biscuit cutter, re-rolling scraps as needed to make 8 rounds. Whisk egg with 1 Tbsp. water in a small bowl. Transfer rounds to a parchment-lined baking sheet and brush tops with egg wash. Bake until tops are golden brown and shortcakes are cooked through, 15–20 minutes.
3. Do Ahead: Shortcakes can be made 2 days ahead. Store tightly wrapped at room temperature.

Berries And Assembly:

1. Coarsely chop 2 cups strawberries (use any bruised or less perfect ones) and cook with 2 Tbsp. sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until berries are softened and mixture is slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Let berry compote cool.
2. Meanwhile, toss basil, 1 Tbsp. sugar, and remaining 1 cup strawberries in a medium bowl and let sit until fruit begins to release juices, 10–15 minutes. Discard basil.
3. Using an electric mixer, beat cream, crème fraîche, and remaining 1 Tbsp. sugar to soft peaks, about 4 minutes.
4. Split shortcakes and fill with berry compote, whipped cream mixture, and macerated strawberries.

Happy baking!

Fondant Decor

Happy Monday! I spent the week making an extravagant bridal shower cake, topped with a big, poofy fondant bow. Let's break down the details of how to make this show-stopping bow!

1. Make sure your fondant is pliable and soft; this requires a little kneading (think bread dough). Be sure to keep your fondant double wrapped in plastic while not using it...fondant hardens as it sits in the open air. 
2. Using a fondant rolling pin, roll out a piece of fondant into a rectangle (perhaps about 1/4" thick, 8x10" wide for easier control. Cut strips about 3/4" thick.
3. Paint a dab of royal icing on the bottom of one end and place a 6" piece gum paste wire on top. Fold the other end of fondant to meet and pinch until the two ends hold together. Place the loop on its side (on parchment! Don't let it stick!) overnight to harden. 
4. Continue the process until you make 30-40 pieces (occasionally some will break as you lift them).
5. Day 2: Make a ball of fondant as the base of your bow. Attach a row of loops into the ball like a 2D flower. Attach a little bit of fondant to the ball - another layer of ribbons. Another little ball and a few more ribbons. As you attach ribbon on top of ribbon, the spacing will get tighter and smaller, giving it more of a poofy, 3D appearance. Be sure to cover up the balls of fondant in the center so the bow looks seamless as it gets bigger.

Good luck and happy baking!